Bistronomy at its best
Nestled in among Collins Place is Pei Modern, Mark Best's first foray on the Melbourne food scene. Reeling off the success of Bests' Sydney restaurant Marque, his Melbourne counterpart equally celebrates fresh and uncomplicated cooking with modern elegance.
Architects delight as the former post office interior has been redesigned (by Helen Rice from Rice Architecture) to reflect a common familiarity, a place where food can shine. Head chef Matt Germanis (ex MoVida and MoVida Aqui) dazzles with fresh produce and polished cooking techniques.
Pei Modern is not pretencious. Named after architect I. M Pei (responsible for the Louvre’s glass pyramid), there is an innovative sleekness about the place.
I arrive fashionably late, a restaurant faux pas when a booking has been made, and am set at ease by 2013 Maitre d of the year, Ainslie Lubbock. Both manager and sommelier, you're guaranteed the full service of this consummate professional. As I perch myself at the bar, order a Watermelon Who Haa, I observe Ainslie glide across the restaurant floor with ease.
A modern masterpiece, this bistro is truly deserving of its 'Paris end' location in town. Bon appetite!
Eat: Menus change daily to reflect market produce. The dinner menu is concise, with six entrees ($18-24), four mains ($32-37), with four offerings from the wood fire grill ($25-39), along with sides and desserts. In a hurry? The Eat! Pei! Quick! (or Eat! Quick! Pei!) menu ($39pp) is available daily for lunch or pre theatre dining. Let Pei decide with a five course dinner degustation ($80).
We started with a recommended entree of peppers de padron, octopus and garlic puree ($20), which burst with freshness. Two mains followed, casarecce chicken dumplings and reggiano ($32 and allow 25 minutes) and whole snapper ($42), which reflected a great combination and balance of flavours. A side of butter beans, almonds and white anchovy ($9) completed this shared dinner for two. Leave room for dessert as we didn't. This only meant that a return visit would be imminent.
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| Peppers de padron, octopus and garlic puree |
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| Casarecce chicken dumplings and reggiano |
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| Whole baby snapper |
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