Ladro

A pizza renaissance at modern trattoria

There is still an air of coolness about Fitzroy favourite Ladro (meaning thief in Italian) as it continues to deliver versatile and flexible food.  

Since emerging on Melbourne's inner city eatery scene, the fan base of artisan wood fired pizzas have stood strong. You won't be mugged of flavours with an assortment of toppings, thin crisp based pizza crusts and home made pastas. It's no wonder this trattoria has been awarded one chef's hat, (The Age Good Food Guide) seven years running 2005-2011.

Can't get a seat amid the hip deco on Gertrude, try your luck at Ladro Greville (Street) in Prahran.  There's also a takeaway menu that's popular among locals.

Best pizza in town? Ladro certainly serves up a fine slice.

Eat: Fresh seasonal ingredients are sourced to deliver a feel good menu, highlighting Italian cuisine. First up on the Gertrude Street dinner menu is the Pizze (pizza). One, along with a Primi Piatti (side) of beans drizzled with honey, is ample for two. Leave room for dolci (dessert) as the Tiramisu is a must.

Beans drizzled with 'love'

Scout's Pizza
Tomatoe, taleggio, caramelised onion, dressed rocket, parmigiano

Tiramisu

Drink: Campari with blood orange.

Alpha Ouzeri

Hellenic mezethes a true way of Greek eating

Upon entering this old school Greek place, the front of house theatre kicks off before the door could even close behind me. A blackboard of Alpha Ouzeri specials is brought to the table for closer inspection.

Head chef Harry Tsiukardanis opened the doors of his ouzeri (not tavern) in 2008 and since continued his love with creative Greek cuisine. Seasonal produce is incorporated into his traditional classic favourites with new dishes added to the menu regularly.

Eat: We opted for the Ouzeri menu, to sample the truly unique traditional range of the house mezethes (tasting plates). Good thing we came with hungry eyes and empty stomachs as the delivery of dishes seemed endless.

Mixed dips served with pita bread
Tsatsiki (yoghurt), melitzanosalata (eggplant), tarama (caviar), skorthalia (potato garlic)

Grilled sausage Krasomezze
Pan fried spicy sausage with wine, olives, peppers and chilli topped with feta cheese



Marinated octopus

 

Fillet fish
Fried calamari
Marida
Whitebait lightly pan fried with olive oil and lemon dressing
King Prawns

 

Galactoboureko
Loukoumades
Baclava

Drink: For a night cap, stroll down to Black Pearl (304 Brunswick St Fitzroy) and head upstairs to the Attic.  Ring the bell and enter to experience table service and some of the best cocktails in town. If it's not on the list, no problem. All requests are accommodated.  Evan (the waiter), kept us in good spirits.

Little Creatures
Revisited
 
A few months on from my last visit to this dining hall, I was invited to a banquet dinner that went from strength to strength with each dish that came out of the vast open kitchen. The space is pure beer and buzz. 
 
DRINK
This time round, I kicked things off with the highly recommended Pipsqueak Best (apple) Cider, just a pony. It's pear cousin was too sweet for an aperitif. I soon switched to New Zealand's Phoenix organic cranberry and lime, with cola as an available alternative.

HIGHLIGHTS



Salmon gravlax, beetroot, crème fraiche

Pan fried calamari, citrus & fennel salad

Barramundi, kipfler potatoes, roast tomato, roquette

Moon Under Water

Ideal pub at arm's length to the Builders

It has only been a hop skip and jump from when I was last at The Builders Arms Hotel, that the September Age (Melbourne Magazine) reader dinner event is held at Moon Under Water. I have been quietly following this restaurants progress, since opening, with great anticipation of its success. The venue, not to mention the menu, did not disappoint. Like a George Orwell essay, the restaurant's namesake, I am continually amazed by chef's McConnell and Murphy culinary craft. 

FOOD
The crowd favourite was the second course of Moreton Bay bugs, asparagus and almond cream.  McConnell took us on a journey of its creation, particularly the delicate handling of the bugs, steamed (outside of its shell) above 80 degrees of light simmering water. True artistry! The almond cream tantalised a fellow dinner, for its simplicity and subtle flavour.

My favourite, without a doubt, was the third course, Cape Grim*. When I was first introduced to this beautiful meat, my love affair began. Where can you buy it? I've been trying to source it via a local butcher and have found four in town that stock it. Note that several more restaurants have it on their menu.

HIGHLIGHTS 

First Course
Leeks, fresh curd & smoked anchovy, lemon oil
2007 Domaine Jacques Tissot Arbois Savagnin, Jura, France
Photo: M.Elizabeth

Second Course
Moreton Bay bugs, asparagus, almond cream
2010 Daniel Crochet Sancerre Plante des Pres, Loire, France
Photo: M.Elizabeth

Third Course
Peppered Cape Grim strip loin
Chateau Segries Lirac Rouge Cuvee rResrvee, Rhone, France
Photo: M.Elizabeth



Fourth Course
Poached meringue, buttermilk ice cream, rhubarb granita
2008 Marc Tempe Gewurztraminer Zellenberg, Alsace, France
Photo: M.Elizabeth

DRINK

Heart & Soil wines were matched with each course.

 

On weekly rotation, the four course prixe fixe menu is sure to keep you from claiming any favourites. This enables McConnell and his team to use seasonal produce, purchased on Wednesday and on the menu the following Monday, and create innovative dishes, which is challenging.

 

*Also try Robbins Island Wagy Beef and King Island beef .

Little Creatures
From hop brewery, this dining hall has real bite

For hoppy beer lovers, Little Creatures Dining Hall is the watering hole for you.Beers are plentiful, but don't worry, ciders and a generous wine list are a welcome alternative. Check out The Beers Are A Changin' for everything you ever need to know about beer. 

The no reservation policy is not to be feared as the dining hall seats many with a clear vantage of the open kitchen from any view.

When in Rome, we kicked things off with one of the house tipples, the Little Creatures Rogers Beer.  Not as sweet as a Belle-vue kriek cheery beer, but more comparable to a Hoegaarden.

Eat: The fresh cut chips were highly recommended and lived up to their praise. Crunchy and french-inspired, I could have downed the whole bowl and two sides of aioli (guilty pleasure) myself. A gold star for the eggplant pizza which surprised with its sweetness and savoury undertones.

Fresh cut chips, garlic aioli (half eaten)

Drink: Little Creatures Rogers Beer.

UPDATE: The Brix has closed for trading until further notice.

The Brix

Bijou bistro a gem in Fitzroy

For the interior alone, a visit to The Brix is a must. Owners and designers Emma O'Mara and Keir Vaughan have transformed the (rear) Brunswick Street space into a warm bistro with inspired French notes.

Eat: Two dining options awake; a five course set menu or the bistro a la carte menu. We opted for the latter. 

 

Golden slices of brioche were delicately washed down with the evenings selected favourites red and white. The biodynamic and organic components of the Sauvignon were enough of a tease for my fellow dinner to sample. The Languesdoc’s red varietal complimented my duck confit well.

 

Cooked to perfection, the meat slid smoothly off the bone with little effort. The steak frites was perfectly accompanied with potatoes soldier stacks, think jenga, and is evident of head chef Ashley Hicks playful youthfulness. 

This one is definitely off the radar and one to watch.

 



Duck confit; carrot, orange, anise (Main)
Photo: H. Walker

Steak Frites (Main)
Photo: H. Walker

Drinks: 2009 Puzelat-Bonhomme ‘Thesee’ Sauvignon – Loire Valley France and 2009 Senat ‘La Nine’, Grenache/Mataro/Shiraz/Carignan/Ciinsault – Languedoc France.

Builders Arms Hotel
Rich history and contemporary bistro at this Fitzroy milieu

This landmark public house has definitely made its mark on the culinary landscape of Fitzroy. The Builders Arms Hotel compliments Chef Andrew McConnell’s Cutler & Co., a stone throw away on Gertrude Street and adds to his growing restaurant empire that includes Cumulus Inc., and Golden Fields. 

Eat: The bistro delights with simple yet contemporary mains. The slow cooked lamb was well cooked and succulent. The extra pastry encasing the fish pie served us well to soak up all the juices.
 

Fish pie, smoked trout, prawns, hapuka, sorrel
House chips (left)
Rocket, radicchio, honey and mustard (right)
Photo: Double Dutch Oven, wwwdoubledutchoven.wordpress.com

The side of chopped broccoli and freekeh salad was a playful surprise. The textures were well thought out and proved complimentary to our mains.

 

The pear tart with vanilla bean ice-cream rivalled the chocolate prune pudding, which was equally as good.

 

Drink: For something a bit different to sip on, the Elderflower Fizz, was refreshing and denoted true flora flavours. There was also a great selection of both domestic and international wines.

 

With the opening of Moon Under Water, the new dinning venue next door, a return visit warranted.